-Ramen, Phò, and Noodle Shops in Portland, Oregon-

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Luc Lac's reputation is well deserved on all counts.


When you walk through the large door at Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen on 2nd and Taylor, one thing is immediately clear... This ain't your grandma's soup shack. In fact, if you can even make it to the door without waiting in a 10-30 minute line, consider yourself lucky. Luc Lac is currently one of Portland's foodie favorites, packing the house almost every single night of the week, serving hundreds of covers over the weekend, and (the best part) it's open late---Like 4am late (weekends).



Their method is quick, efficient, and at times a bit rude. Luc Lac is famous for two things, one being their spectacularly fresh Vietnamese cuisine, the other being their "we don't give a fuck if you eat here" attitude. As soon as you enter, you get in line with the rest of the cattle, bob your head to some Holy Ghost while looking at their small(ish) menu, then order after 10 or so minutes of confusion. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO EXPEDITE THIS PROCESS. Not only is there a huge sign on the wall demanding conformity to their system, but if you snag a table prematurely, a kid in suspenders and a Morrissey haircut will come ask you to leave. The streamline cattle-call is what keeps people fed in this chow-line, so stop trying to make this about you.



After ordering food and bev, patrons wait in another line (yes, I'm serious.) until a table clears up and you can sit down. Beers are passed out in this line, people mingle in the tiny common space, and smart eaters gather their sticks, water, and napkins from the bin near the bar. It was the Saturday night 9pm rush when I arrived at Luc Lac, this time--- I ordered a large bowl of beef noodle soup, the coconut prawns, and the veggie rolls. A good sample of the basics.

Soon, my number is called and I sit down to my food arriving with me. This is what we are here for.
The prawns are delicious, extra crispy, and smashed like pancakes. I snack on them with my guest, we munch on some of the rolls and everything checks out as savory and delicious (you almost CAN'T mess up the fried goodies). Next comes the bowl and the first thing I notice is the massive fragrance. Anise, clove, cilantro, and a musky beef fat aroma fills the air around us and instantly, my mouth begins to water. The broth itself is super super umami. Fat jewels almost reflect the lights above us in their frequency. This bowl is the product of a long, low bone-boil. The noodles are near perfect, only sticking together for a moment, and the quantity (even for me) is sufficient. Each piece of meat in the bowl tastes like it was hucked from the cow moments before... Even the meatballs, though a bit on the slick side, are obviously the product of same-day kitchen prep. Honestly, if Luc Lac doesn't take my favorite bowl in town trophy (one which Pho Vinh still holds, sorry), they at LEAST take my freshest bowl award. Everything from the meat, the broth, and down to the veggies were nothing short of wholesome and bright.
One way you can really tell how fresh your food is in a Pho place, is by smelling the bean sprouts. If even left out a few days, these things smell like hot garbage, but if kept properly or purchased day of--- There is no scent, just water and an ultra-light veggie fragrance.  Luc Lac delivers the latter.

So if you are okay with taking a number, sitting elbow-to-elbow with night owls and party kids, and taking in the nu-wave Pho experience--complete with street art inspired murals and chalkboard menus--then pick a night (not Saturday) to visit Luc Lac. At the end of the long, hard process there is reward ^_^

Rating
Broth: 8/10
Noodles: 10/10
Meat: 10/10
Veggies: 10/10


[Visit Luc Lac's website for more...]

Utopia Restaurant and Lounge is everything but a Utopia, a restaurant, or even a lounge...

So it's monday night and I am craving some on fire Pho....

I ride past this place quite often, and figured since Hanoi Kitchen was closed (great place, check it out sometime--right up the road) I would pop into the mysterious, Karaoke boasting, Vietnamese joint on 82nd. The restaurant side seemed empty and stagnant, so I hit the bar where there were regulars dumping money into lotto machines, a football game going, and some cheering from the small crowd. I like a divey atmosphere, and often streetfood/corner bars are hiding foodie gems that make history, so I figured since they had some interesting menu items, I would go for it.


[Not my photo]

I order the wings and their "Spicy Beef" Pho soup with a Blue Moon (limited tap). The bartender is nice, the regulars are focused on the game. My wings come out and they are nicely fried, and the first few are pretty good.... Then I bit into a larger one and it is cold inside. Yuck. I put it down, reach for another and it's the same story. Not cool.

My Pho comes out and it is looking different than the usual fare. The broth is bright red, the noodles are super fat (Udon style verm), and there is no ribeye, no tendon, no tripe, nothing... Just some precooked tenderloin on top (4 pieces) and a few spongy looking sausage balls. I surmise that it will be a new style, not exactly what I was into but whatever, and I dig in...


[Also not my photo, but very similar look with no shrimp and much more red]
[Phone out of batt :( ]

The broth is really light... Like campbells chicken noodle in a can light. There is an overbearing red pepper/chili taste, but nothing else. The noodles are cooked nicely but not supportive of the broth, not adding anything but wormy texture to a bland bowl. The meat looks like jerky and tastes like someone left it out on a countertop... Ugh. The meat balls are even worse, tasting like they were thrown in last minute after sitting in an open refrigerator for a few days... There is actually a point during the meal where I ask myself if I am comfortable with food poisoning/plan out the next few hours just in case... But for the sake of reviewing, I muscle through the bowl, send my wings to the garbage, and chug the rest of my Blue Moon (which was pretty flat, but its a dive bar).

All in all, I make a pretty serious hobby out of discovering/reviewing good noodle joints around town and this one gets a thumbs down. Back in February, I had the worst bowl of ramen in Portland... This might be the worst Pho, it's certainly the worst thus far.

 I would only eat here again if I were stranded, starving, or super wasted. They have to do better with that real estate!

Rating
Broth: 1/10
Noodles: 3/10
Meat: 2/10
Veggies: 0/10