Ah, Maru... The east-side sister restaurant to Shigezo that serves up all your favorites from across the river and then some. This week, I took advantage of the chilly weather and made my way to the widely popular food/bev neighborhood that is SE Division to check out what kind of new fare was boiling.
So some familiar faces on Maru's menu! The Tokyo Ramen, for one, was reviewed a few months ago (along with the Kumamoto) from Shigezo and nearly moved me to name them #1 ramen shop in Portland. Instantly I am aware that this franchise knows when it has a winner. That said, there are two interesting looking bowls ahead of the Tokyo which catch my imagination as they seem more complex than the traditional shoyu option. First being the Sapporo Shio-butter and Corn Ramen, a bowl with seafood kaeshi, corn, mushrooms, and chashu pork---second being the Chicken Paitan Ramen, a chicken broth bowl featuring smoked pork, green onions, and a medium boiled egg...
I have had corn in Ramen before at House of Ramen and though I enjoyed it a bit, I wasn't in the mood for sweet(ish) kernels, plus I am feeling a bit cold and in need of a "farm in a bowl" type of ramen tonight. I order the Chicken Paitan Ramen and a side of Karaage.
The bowl drops and instantly I am overcome with the old homey feeling brought on by the ancient cure for everything... Chicken noodle soup. This bowl is bright yellow from the dense chicken broth, the flavorful shiodare (chicken/onion salt-stock), and the sunny eggs, bleeding gooey goodness into the topside of this dish. The smoked pork adds a woodsy, heady aroma and all together I am transported to being 6 years old, watching my dad throw together hearty ramen pots at home on a rainy night. This is the quinta essesncia of a homestyle ramen. The broth is like being wrapped in a thick, down blanket-- the noodles are thin yet incredibly sturdy, the meat and veggies add flavor without taking over your mouth. I could have used some mushroom or even spinach in this bowl, but it didn't detract from my overall experience...
For those who don't know, the Japanese term "Paitan" translates roughly to "milky" or "thick". Maru's Chicken Paitan is nothing short of either and the consistency stays present throughout the entire experience and beyond. If the Tokyo Ramen and Shigezo's Kumamoto Ramen nearly won my #1 spot award, Maru's Chicken Paitan certainly wins my Most Umami Bowl in PDX award (really doling them out these days). After finishing this bowl, I was left with an unmistakable fatty slickness that felt as if I had smeared my lips with coconut oil or lip gloss. Totally rad. Not to mention the massive, almost "country" chicken flavor which was something I frankly never expected from Japanese bowl of anything. Another way ramen can change, grow, and exceed your expectations at any time. Just when you think you know quite a bit about the formulation of a given foodie favorite...
As Socrates famously said, "The only true wisdom is knowing that you know nothing..."
This bowl reminded me why I started this blog... There is just so much to experience!
Visit them tomorrow, people.
Rating
Broth: 10/10
Noodles: 10/10
Meat: 8/10
Veggies: 7/10
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